New Orleans: Off the Beaten Path

New Orleans is one of three places in the world that feels like home (the other two being Brooklyn and Martinique, French West Indies). I started going to New Orleans after a milestone birthday and, since then, go back a couple of times a year.

I do not consider myself a tourist but a visitor. I like to explore New Orleans beyond the French Quarter, although I will say as touristy as it is, the French Quarter is one of the most historic and well preserved neighborhoods around — and it’s actually more “Spanish” than anything else. Here are 5 my favorite off the beaten path places and activities to explore within the Crescent City.

1. Ninth Ward Rebirth Bike Tours

I took this tour with a friend and it was fantastic. It’s easy to just wander around the quarter and the adjacent neighborhood, the Marigny. But to actually cruise through the neighborhoods of the Marigny, the Upper Ninth Ward (the Bywater) and the Lower Ninth Ward is a really great experience. We made stops along the way to learn about the history of each neighborhood and New Orleans in general. We also visited the St. Roch cemetery. Just a little FYI, going on a cemetery tour is a great way to learn about New Orleans history. I remember rolling through the streets of the Lower Ninth Ward and the little kids getting excited to see me because I was BLACK!

Sidenote: the vast majority of tour participants are white, so it was a pleasant surprise for the community members of the Lower Ninth Ward to see my black ass coming through! I got mad love as I rode through, lots of smiles and waves!

We got to see the levees, Fats Domino’s home and learned more about the continuing recovery process. We got po-boys and ate lunch in Ronald Lewis’ backyard. Ronald Lewis has a museum behind his house called The House of Dance and Feathers that showcases social and pleasure aid societies as well as Mardi Gras Indian memorabilia. On the ride back, we stopped by a bar to have a drink. This is a very memorable tour and a great way to get to know New Orleans outside of the traditional French Quarter tours. Bonus: a percentage of the tour proceeds goes toward the renewal efforts in the Lower Ninth Ward.

2. Three Muses Restaurant

Three Muses, located on Frenchmen Street, is a great place to grab some really delicious cocktails and food. Based on the idea of the three muses — food, music and spirits — this restaurant has live music on most days and a very enjoyable ambiance. Come for the food and drinks, stay for the incredible live music playing every evening.

3. Meals from the Heart Café

I have never had a bad meal at this cafe.

Meals from the Heart Café uses great quality blue crab lump meat and doesn’t use fillers. Their crab cakes are famous with locals and visitors alike. I ordered the crab cake passion with a poached egg and salad. It was delicious. The garlic-lemon remoulade was perfect and the dressing deliciously tangy. The crab cake was light, flaky and perfectly seasoned. It went beautifully with the poached egg and whole wheat english muffin.

The whole menu is heart healthy with low sodium, gluten free and vegan options. They even have a gluten free version of their famous crab cake passion. They also have a banging vegan shake. I got to know the owners last summer, a brother and sister team. I love when I find places that are healthy AND delicious.

(I went to a certain vegetarian restaurant in the Quarter this past January and I was not impressed at all. It was a little too out there for me personally and I find this kind of fare gives vegetarianism a bad name. Just funky, weird flavors with no rhyme or reason. Hit or miss. I had a similar experience at a famous vegetarian restaurant in the East Village here in NYC. The food had no flavor! They seasoned their dishes with water. I don’t understand why some people think healthy means no seasoning or flavor. But I digress — luckily Meals From The Heart Cafe is on point with health and flavor.)

4. Bacchanal

Bacchanal — literally at the end of the world, aka at the very end of the Bywater — is a “a wine laboratory where food music and culture collude with Holy Vino to create the most unique evenings you will ever experience in New Orleans Ninth Ward.” It’s a very magical bar where you can make your own cheese plate and pick from a vast array of wines. I went during the hottest time of the year, August, and experienced some really amazing music in a backyard space lit up with white Christmas lights. Even if you are staying in the French Quarter or the Central Business district, it’s well worth the drive or cab ride out there.

5. Cajun Seafood in the 7th Ward

If you are looking for some great crawfish, come to Cajun Seafood and purchase it by the pound. It’s counter service, nothing fancy but reallydelicious. There are also other food choices available but I only go there for the great crawfish. I order 2 pounds and eat it all in one sitting.

Where to go

Ninth Ward Rebirth Bike Tours $
Email info@ninthwardrebirthbiketours.com to make reservations

Three Muses $$
536 Frenchmen St
Marigny

Meals from the Heart Café $$
1100 N Peters St
Ste 13
French Quarter

Bacchanal $$
600 Poland Ave
Bywater

Cajun Seafood $
1479 N Claiborne Ave
Seventh Ward
+ multiple locations

Photo Credits: Ninth Ward Rebirth Bike Tours Facebook, Three Muses Facebook, Bacchanal Wine Facebook, Cajun Seafood Facebook

Kara Angele Pressley sometimes hits up these Southern restaurants in NYC.